I like Christmas. I like the lights and the trees and the carols. (The real carols. I'd be happy never to hear "It's a holly, jolly Christmas" ever again.) But since 2007, when my little sister died, Christmas has always been just a little bit melancholy. I wrote this essay in 2008 and the emotions I felt then are still present, especially when I go into a certain shop where I pass the displays of salt caramels and candy canes she enjoyed so much. i don't really talk about why I tend to get "internal" during the holidays because they're so stressful for everyone and burdening friends with my baggage is selfish.
And by Christmas Day, I've usually snapped out of my funk. But in case you wondered...this is my christmas story.
y sister Mary
loved Christmas. You think it’s rushing the season when the yuletide
decorations appear the day after Halloween?She kept little white
Christmas tree lights strewn around her apartment year round,
surrounding the space with a dotted line of luminosity that defied the
darkness that often threatened to engulf her.
She started her
Christmas wish list in January, appending directions and diagrams for
the hopping-impaired, and revising it weekly throughout the year.
Christmas was what she
called “a candy holiday,” a time she gave herself permission to eat all
the wrong things … all the time.Meals were made of eggnog and sugar
cookies.Dessert would be dates stuffed with cream cheese frosting.There
would be candy canes.She was picky about her peppermint, would only
deign to eat one particular brand.She’d stock up during the half-price
sales after the holiday and mourn when her supply ran out.(And by stock
up, I’m not talking about purchasing a couple of boxes; I mean she
stocked up.She’d buy enough to last till February.)
She’d had her Christmas
stocking since she was a girl.It was made by our mother out of red
velvet, with her name stitched in white around the top, framed by a
constellation of embroidered stars.She liked that stocking filled with
Hershey’s kisses, packets of dried figs, and one of those Lifesavers’
Sweet Story Book collections with the butter rum and pep-o-mint flavors.
These were treats from
our childhood, items that showed up year after year, along with a dozen
pencils with our names on them (mail-ordered from a catalogue in the
days before the Internet) and the hard, black rubber comb that seemed
inevitably to lodge in the toe of our stockings.The Lifesavers’
assortment was the candy equivalent of the Crayola box with the built-in
crayon sharpener—we usually got one of those as well.In recent years,
the crayons and comb were optional, but the kisses were not.
Mary was a
traditionalist about Christmas dinner as well, and when we feasted the
season, it was with the same dishes our mother and grandmother had
made.Except for pie.Neither one of us could ever manage a pie crust as
flaky and light as the ones our mother made, so we gave up and opted for
cookies as a consolation prize.There were gingersnaps made from a
recipe out of Joy of Cooking; peanut blossom cookies with Hershey’s kisses, a prize-winner from a Pillsbury Bake-off sometime
in the 60s.There were seven-layer bars.There were oatmeal cookies made
from a recipe hand-written on a page of lined notebook paper so
splattered with butter it is transparent in parts.
There was always pumpkin
bread and banana chocolate-chip bread and orange-cranberry bread made
from the instructions on the back of the bag of cranberries.One year I’d
been too busy to bake and tried to substitute a loaf of cranberry bread
from a high-end bakery.It did not go over well.
In fact, the only new
addition to the traditional Christmas day menu—where meals melt into
each other in one unbroken decadent dream—has been “Bubble Loaf,” a
sweet bread drizzled with an orange/butter/sugar glaze that makes
cinnamon rolls seem as bland as unbuttered white toast.
We were brought up in
the south, so Christmas dinner always offered what our grandfather
called “a gracious plenty.”More food, in other words, than any one
family could eat in a week.We carried that tradition with us, even when
it was only the two of us to celebrate.After all, why not make enough
food to last until the New Year—leaving more time to play with your
Christmas presents instead of cooking.And when everything was gone but
the carcass of the turkey, there would be Brunswick stew to make from
the bones.And of course, biscuits had to be baked to eat with the
stew.(And pot pies could be made from the leftovers of both.Done right, a
Christmas dinner could last until March.)
The cooking was left to
me, but Mary made her own Christmas cards.They were whimsical—designs
that usually featured the members of her menagerie, which at various
times included an iguana, a tortoise, several frogs, a chameleon and two
snakes in addition to a fluctuating number of cats. On her last card,
she’d sketched her six cats, sleeping and dreaming of candy canes and
fish.I discovered the prototype in her desk when I cleaned out her
apartment.I found homes for all but one of the cats, and the last one
came home to live with me.It puts me one cat over the line, but he’s a
lovable animal, a sweet-faced marmalade tabby with golden eyes and
abandonment issues.
I know how he feels.
My sister died last
year, but the pain of her loss is a wound only freshly healed
over.Beneath the new pink skin is tender flesh filled with nerve endings
firing at random.The ache isn’t constant, but summoned unexpectedly,
triggered by the most innocuous things.The scent of peppermint. The
taste of salty caramel.A glimpse of Miracle on 34th Street while clicking through to the news.
My sister loved Christmas.I loved my sister.The two feelings are now inextricably twined.
I’ll be making Bubble Loaf for breakfast Christmas morning.And I’ll be thinking of her.
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